Motor Mounts

The idea of replacing the motor in my little malibu from a V6 to a V8 started before I owned the car, but that part of the project continues. The person who swapped the motors welded on the frame side motor mounts even though it should have been a bolt on fit. Small block chevy V8s were a common option on this car, so it should have been simple to make the switch. Something didn't work out though and now I'm have to figure out why it didn't bolt in to place correctly.

The first step was to see if I had the correct motor mounts and brackets. The frame side mounts are fairly universal to Chevy after around 1973. The motor side brackets are a bit more of a mystery. Mine are both the same and have 334971 stamped on them. Surprisingly, information on this part # is hard to find. It seems that it was later changed to 10213125. Same part, new number.

Some vehicles used different engine side motor brackets for the left and right sides, but it appears that G-body vehicles used the same brackets for both sides. I never found definitive info to support this, but I'm going forward using this assumption since more opinions than not take this stance. It's interesting that it is not easy to find this info.

As far as mounting location for the frame side mounts, here's some words from Ray the Rat's Elky FAQ:

V6 installation, the motor mounts are mounted in the rearmost position on the front crossmember. When installing a V8 (this applies to Chevy smallblocks, since that's all I have direct experience with) the mounts need to be repositioned to the frontmost position on the crossmember.

This can be tedious at best, since there are nuts inside the crossmember that need to be held as the bolts are removed from the top. Several methods have been used to accomplish this. Some people have used a combination of socket extensions and knuckle joints, some have created their own wrench by welding a piece of bar stock onto a box-end wrench, others have used a hole saw to cut a hole in the crossmember to allow access to the nuts. I've also been able to do this by removing the bolt that retains the lower control arm and lowering it with a floor jack, then accessing the nuts from the end of the crossmember.

Thanks to Ray for the helpful explanation. I think, though, for now I'll leave the mounts where they are. If I start the process of breaking the welds and repositioning the mounts, who knows how far it'll go. I'd certainly have to alter the exhaust pipes. I think I'll wait for now.

a (very) small success

I have some chromed steel, Chevrolet badged valve covers that I bought used from a friend. They have some scratches and dings, so they fit in perfectly well with the rest of the car. I never could figure out the breather cap situation. When I got the car it had no breather, just an open baffled hole in the valve cover.

I tried 2 different breather caps with grommets from Napa but neither fit the 1.22 in AKA 1 1/4 in holes. I think one was too big and the other too small, but close enough to stump me for a while. The single grommet that came along with the covers fits the PCV valve but not the newest chrome Chevy breather that I bought.

Today at Action Autoparts, I noticed several choices of breather grommets on their wall. One pack said for 1 1/4 in hole, 3/4 in ID. That was like the one I had. Another pack said 1 in ID. This looked a lot closer at the store, and it fit just right and tight at home. Awesome. It only took 5 years.




Now where did I put that PCV valve?

Spoilers

This malibu came with the stock front spoiler which is a piece of black plastic that fits on the bottom of the radiator support. The real deal is the front spoiler that came with the el camino SS. It attaches to the radiator support and the fenders to complete the body line of the fenders across the front. Here's photos of el caminos with the spoiler:




I also picked up the wagon rear spoiler. It covers up the rear window hinges and adds that little something.

Engine Rebuild

Here is my Chevy 355 motor machined, cleaned, and painted:

It took some work to get it this far.

Fat Tires

I've got 15 x 7in steel Corvette Rallye wheels on my Malibu thanks to Loren, the previous owner. The original tires on this car were probably 185/75R14. I'm happy with my 235/60R15 on the front and 255/60R15 on the rear. It's a lot of rubber. I use Mr. Gasket wheel spacers on the rear to fend off some rubbing.

Somebody stole 2 of the 4 center caps when Loren had the car. I've tracked down a couple caps to complete the set. They're not show quality, but pretty nice looking. My outer trim rings are a little beat up though.



My caps aren't so shiny.

Trans Crossmember Modification

In order to use true dual exhaust pipes from the headers back on G-body cars, the tranny crossmember needs to be replaced with an aftermarket piece or the current one needs to be modified.

I used the Transmission Mod Page on MalibuRacing.com as a basis for my chop and weld. Basically, I tack welded a piece of 1/4 in thick steel over the place where the exhaust tube would go. Then I chopped the piece of crossmember out with a mitre saw mounted with a metal cutting blade and then a hack saw. I then finished the weld with a wire feed welder.



One problem with my mod was that the crossmember flexed quite a bit when it took the weight of the tranny. I added pieces of 1/8 in thick steel to make the plate into a I shape. This helped a bit, but the crossmember still flexes. I should have used 3/8 in thick steel plate for the main piece.




Also, I cut the piece out perpendicular to the crossmember. I should have cut it along the line where the exhaust was to go. This caused me to have extra bends in the exhaust tubing.

Overall, the project worked fine. Now that I'm considering going to a 4 speed 700R4 transmission, I may have to do it again on the 700R4 crossmember.

Old Engine Out

I finally removed the 305 LG4 motor that was in the car when I got it. It originally came from a 1980 Caprice. After removing all the accessories, we just had to unbolt the motor from the front mounts and tranny mount from the tranny. We then unbolted the crossmember from the frame and twisted it around so it dropped loose. We had a jack under the tranny pan until the crane took the weight.

Delay Pulse Wipers

The El Camino gauge cluster came with intermittent wiper control. Some people convert to steering columns with the control on the column, but this'll due for now. This beats reaching to the dash to flip the wipers on/off/on/off, but I still have to reach. I also got the wiper motor, which is different for intermittent controlled option. Check out the wiring diagram:

Rear defrost

There was originally no rear defrost of any kind on this Malibu. There were options for a blown air and electric defrost on the wagons. I now have a rear window made for electric defrost. In the wiring diagrams, there is some kind large relay for the rear defrost which I don't have. Also, it looks like the switch is unique. I don't know where the switch was located on the dash console.

New front suspension

All front end steering and suspension components looked shot. I banged, blasted and scraped all the old road gunk off and started removing everything.

I disconnected the steering knuckles to drop the lower control arms and release the springs. I removed the control arms and pounded out the old bushings.

Based on the advice on the web like:

G-body suspension mods
and
Spring Chart

I chose new Moog springs #5660 because they would reported to give a stiffer ride and lowered height by 1 inch. I also got KYB Gas-A-Just shocks which were relatively cheap and had good reviews. I also bought some graphite impregnated polyurethane control arm bushings made by Energy Suspension.

I had a repair shop install the new bushings. They also pressed in the lower ball joints. I had to touch up my new paint job on the control arms from where the used the torch to enlarge the holes for the bushings. I also added new bumpers on the upper arms. The old, brittle ones torn apart on removal.

Someone Else's Arms Look A Lot Like Mine
Someone Else's Naked G-Body

The new springs were a lot stiffer than the worn out stock ones. The stock replacement springs were rated at 345 lbs/in2. Moog #5660, intended for S-10 trucks, were 639 lbs/in2. The new springs are almost twice as stiff.

I've driven the car since the install and the front end is very stiff indeed. Any bump hits the front end hard. The handling is very tight. I also added a beefy sway bar which surely helped, but the stiff springs killed a lot of the body roll around corners. It also sits pretty tall now. I plan to cut a little off the spring to lower the front end 1 inch. I would have done this already but I dread having to compress these springs again. Here's a quote from the above MalibuRacing.com link: "If you only want to lower by one inch, trimming a quarter or half coil off of the 5660 would probably sufficient to give the ride height you desire and not bottom."

If I were to replace the springs again, I'd go softer.

Ray's Chevy Asylum site was a great help for step by step instructions with pictures for this operation. Thanks to him.

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Dust Collector

The malibu is great at holding the kayak up, but that's not the best use for this car.



I hope this weblog will help get me motivated to finish this long, long project. I need this car rolling. and soon.

Power Steering Gear

My old power steering gear was leaking and I was unable to get it apart to replace the likely bad seal. I bought a refurbished constant ratio steering gear to install. I'm not sure on the specs for the stock one (16:1 maybe) and I don't remember the specs for the new one (12:1 maybe), but the difference is huge. And it should be if my guess on the ratios is right, it would be 4 turns of the steering wheel lock to lock for the stock box and less than 3.5 turns lock to lock for the quick ratio box. I was not sure about the purchase because the quick ratio box might take away from the 'wagon feel' while driving. Since I was replacing it with something, I figured I might as well go for the sports car steering. I've driven it several times with the new box and the driving experience is improved and more intense. Just a little steering input makes the car move and quick. This is great for high speed driving but does make holding the car straight a little more work. Overall, it's pretty fun.

Here's an article describing quick ratio boxes:

Quick Ratio Steering Boxes



I had the old lines from the pump to the gear, but cut them to get the gear out the first time. I never did find the right replacement lines. The ones the had at Napa for the Malibu were totally different. I went through several other applications looking for some that were close. I can't remember which ones I chose, but they routed quite differently. I seemed to work though.

I still need to replace the rag joint. That'll probably be easier before the engine and headers get in the way.

Radiator swap

This 'Bu came from the factory with a V6 engine and a small radiator to match. While I had the front end apart, I bought a new, replacement 3 core copper radiator for V8 applications.

I also needed a fan shroud for the V8. I found one in a junk yard with cracks on most bolt holes. Some washers made it fit though. That is, until I left a drop light on it long enough to warp a chunk of the top edge.

I also got a radiator core support out of a used vehicle. Lots of bolts to get it loose, but the replacement one looked new compared to the rusted out junker that came with the car. After some wire wheel work and some paint, I did look new.

Gauges

Also from the El Camino SS, I picked up a gauge cluster with tach, round speedo, and round volt, fuel, water temp, and oil pressure gauges. I hope everything works when I get it installed.

The cluster also has intermittent wiper control and a joystick to control the passenger sideview mirror which I have never seen before. I didn't get the mirror or the controls though.

Here's a page on how to convert the wiring harness from rectangular speedo cluster with warning lights to round gauges cluster:

Gauge Wiring Conversion

Here's a page from Ray's Asylum on converting from a Monte Carlo cluster to one from an El Camino:

Gauge Swap

Heater box

The heater box had to come out for some reason that I don't recall. The heater core was rusted out and needed to be replaced, but that didn't necessitate removing the whole box.



The padding on the heat door is crumbling and needs to be removed. I've never heard a suggestion for what to replace it with.



I have never had a blower fan in this car. Since this Malibu was a base model with no A/C, the heater box and blower fan is different from the units in A/C equipped models. It took me a while to find the right blower, but I found one in an El Camino SS.



The sealant that went between the firewall and the box was some heavy duty stuff. I've never heard a good suggestion on what to use when replacing it. Someone at an auto parts store suggested 3M Weatherstrip Sealant which I have and with probably try.

Setting Timing

Words from Barry: (on how to set engine timing)

1. Disconnect the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the line.

2. Power time the engine at 3,000 rpm's. That means, attach your timing light with the engine off, then set the idle screw on the carb so the engine is running at 3,000 (a little higher is okay, but not lower). Adjust the distributor for the highest rpm, then back it off by about 2-4 degrees (using the light). You can back the timing off at idle if it is easier, since turning the distributor 2 degrees at idle will have the same 2 degree effect at 3,000 rpm's. That way, you don't have to put your head into a screaming engine compartment to adjust the distributor, and the timing marks will probably be easier to read at idle.

3. Set the idle screw back to a normal idle if you haven't already in the previous step.

4. Make a full throttle run with a hot engine and listen for spark knock or "ping". If it pings, back it off another 2 degrees. Keep doing this until there is no pinging. This will be your maximum MECHANICAL advance. WRITE IT DOWN! (advance at 3,000 rpm's).

5. Now with the idle set normally, adjust the distributor for the highest rpm with no ping, especially when accelerating right off idle. Usually, advance for highest rpm and back off 2 degrees, just like before. This will be your INITIAL setting. Make sure when you are doing this, that the timing marks are steady. If they are jumping around at idle, then you need stronger springs. Rule of thumb, choose springs to BEGIN your MECHANICAL curve approximately 500 rpm's above your idle speed. This will give you a steady idle speed. Recheck this setting AFTER every time you select new weights.

6. With a kit, select a set of weights that will give you the total MECHANICAL advance that you found in step #4. In other words, let's say that you found your INITIAL advance to be 14 degrees, and your total MECHANICAL advance to be 34 degrees. That means that you need to put weights in the distributor that will allow 10 degrees distributor/20 degrees crankshaft advance (remember, you have been measuring CRANKSHAFT timing with your timing light, but the distributor turns only half as fast as the crankshaft).

7. Make a full throttle pass to check your work so far. WRITE IT DOWN!

8. Reconnect the vacuum advance (it has been disconnected until now, remember?)

9. At part throttle CRUISE, listen for pinging. It won't be very loud, so you might have to find a place with a hedge or some other barrier on the left to reflect the sound back to you with your drivers side window open.

10. If it pings, the Crane kit comes with a vacuum limiter (a small flat serrated disk about the size of a nickle that mounts inside the distributor on the vacuum advance unit). Adjust it to reduce the total vacuum advance until it stops pinging. Don't get this confused with the allen wrench adjustment inside the vacuum tube port. The allen wrench only adjusts the RATE of vacuum advance. In other words, how fast the vacuum advance mechanism will move when exposed tio vacuum. Let it happen fast (all the way Clock Wise if I remember correctly), unless it causes ping when ACCELERATING (different than part throttle CRUISE) at part throttle. In that case, back it off 2 turns at a time until there is no ping at part throttle acceleration.

11. The intial advance gives you low rpm torque and drivability, the total mechanical gives you maximum horsepower, and the vacuum gives you the best mileage possible from your particular engine combination.

original post

Water Temp Sensor Testing and Placement

This page discusses how to test water temp gauge sensor for accuracy prior to installation. Placing the probe in boiling water will let you know if the gauge is accurate. If it displays 212 deg. F at sea level, it's good.

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The next section of their explanation discusses the proper location of the sensor. They say that the best location for a water temp gauge sensor is in the intake manifold water jacket near the thermostat and the best location for a water temp warning light switch is in the cylinder head.

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Testing and installing both a water temp gauge and sensor can provide some good info on the enginerigger at h. A warning light switch may higher temps (235-260 deg. F) and can let you know of a spike in cylinder temp, while the gauge sensor near the thermostat will let you know that the cooling system as a whole is working properly.

This is the best explanation I've seen.